This
page gives a brief run-down on initial checks made to help assess the
type of restoration work needed.
Restoration falls
into two main categories: cabinet restoration and chassis restoration.
After this rough division comes the 'fine tuning' of any restoration
project: from minor work, more a service than a restoration in truth,
where the cabinet and chassis are surface cleaned and only the faulty
components replaced; to a complete cabinet and chassis rebuild - cabinet
stripped and major panels replaced or reveneered, new knobs cast, scale
plate remade, loudspeaker repaired or rebuilt. Chassis stripped back to
bare metal with all components removed, followed by a painstaking
repaint and rebuild, hiding new capacitors within the shells of the old
and ending with full tuned circuit alignment using a signal generator
and possibly an oscilloscope or meter as an output measuring device.
These two extremes are relatively rare - though the
minor work is perhaps the rarest. Most projects fit somewhere
between, with full chassis stripdowns being reserved for the most
elderly of receivers such as early 1930s TRFs.
Annobium Punctatum
The common furniture beetle, the larvae of which are
the cause of the holes we know as woodworm. These little varmints will
attack perfectly sound wood and are extremely common in all temperate
climes. Wooden cased radios are a prime target for them, so I use the
following procedure in defence:
With wooden cabinets, before any inspection, an
external wash with five-star wood protection and woodworm killer is
given, then the set is covered securely by placing into a sealed bin
liner bag. This is to prevent any escape of the flying insect that
causes the damage. I have no wish to infect or re-infect any of my sets
or the timbers of my workshop. Note too that even Bakelite sets may have
a ply baffle board which often seems to attract the woodworm.
When first placed upon the bench, a careful general
inspection of the set is carried out to decide whether the set is worth
restoring and if so, just how deep such a restoration should be. During
this examination, digital photos are taken and a record is made of any
missing knobs, back covers, damage to loudspeaker escutcheon, fabric,
woodworm past or present, damaged or missing emblems, scale glass
problems, feet, chassis holding screws.
Questions to answer:
Has the set been 'got at' by
someone in the past?
Are the valves present and if so, are they the correct
ones?
What is the state - if any - of the mains lead?
Does the rotary mains switch (often part of the volume
or tone control) 'feel' as though it is clicking over properly?
If all knobs are present, are they the correct ones
for the model, and is their attachment method (grub screw, 'D' clip)
functioning on them all?
What condition is any of the visible internal wiring,
for example the loudspeaker connection leads? Usually, with elderly
sets, the rubber insulation will have crumbled or hardened (self-vulcanisation)
Note that so far, no power has been applied to the
set. Decision time!
Take a look
at the pages listed on the left. All pages describe restorations but in
particular, the EKCO and BUSH pages have detailed descriptions of
restorative work.
CAVEAT
Please
note that working with vintage valve equipment necessarily involves high
and dangerous voltages - and other hazards for the unwary. Be sure to
read all you can find about restoration methods and especially safety
procedures before you embark upon any work. No responsibility can be
accepted by the owner of this web site for your failure to do so or to
work sensibly and safely.