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| Wood cabinet refinishing: some general points I have received a number of enquiries about the methods of cabinet refinishing I use. The method shown on the 'Marconiphone' page uses Danish Oil. Several people have tried this and report very satisfactory results. However, Danish Oil is only one of several possible finishing methods and may not necessarily be the most appropriate for the set in hand. Here is an edited copy of an e-mail I sent as a response to a recent enquiry about French Polishing: Re the finish of radio cabinets. Many of the pre-second world war cabinets would have been French polished, therefore this is the stuff to use. You can check for the presence of French polish by rubbing with methylated spirit on a cloth. If the surface finish 'picks up' becoming slightly sticky, that's French polish. Turpentine or other thinners (not cellulose, though) has no effect on French polish, and methylated spirit does not affect any other finish than French polish - if you get my meaning. Although there are different grades of French polish with differing degrees of colour and translucency - as well as the intensity of colour depending upon the build-up of the finish - most would have used standard stuff, which has a lovely golden-tawny colour but does not hide the grain. Often used when veneers used had slightly different shades or colours, as the effect blended things nicely. Button polish is another form of French polish, I believe this is clearer. Sanding sealer is yet another, virtually colourless French polish. White polish is clear and ideal for light coloured woods when wishing to avoid obscuring the grain. All French polishing is something of an art. I do it when essential to keep the intention of the original makers. Later sets tended to be lacquer sprayed. These lacquers usually had a colorant added to them, which built up into a brownish, obscuring film, especially around edges. Remember too that years of tinted wax polish, smoke from chimney open fires and nicotine all combine to give what the antiques trade love to call 'patina' but which, in the case of radio sets, is basically muck. A good initial cleaner is Ambersil aerosol foam cleanser, available from most mail-order electronic suppliers such as Maplin. You can see the dirt flood off. As for finishing with Danish oil, its simple to use and gives a nice effect, but it IS clear and variations in the shade of the underlying wood will show. On 1950s radios it can look authentic, even enhance the finish. Its all a matter of choice! My principle is - if it looks right, it is right. Speaker fabric, knobs, grille and dial reveals, feet - all should be as near to the original factory appearance as possible. Comments on above: The French Polish on 1930s cabinets would most likely have been applied by spraying, not by hand. Other suitable finishes include (a) waxing. Seal the bare wood first, using sanding sealer or normal French Polish. Two coats applied by brush should do the trick. Give lots of time for drying before rubbing down lightly with fine wire wool. Then apply finishing wax (Colron do a good one) by cloth, buffing by turning the cloth frequently. Several layers over a few days will build up to a semi-matt smoothness. (b) spray lacquering. Use aerosol spray lacquer of the type sold in car accessory shops. Tinted lacquering requires specialist spraying equipment and a source of both lacquers and tints. These items are available in the furniture manufacturing trade. You may find a firm willing to supply you 'one-off' with materials, but the low-pressure high-volume compressor and spray gun will have to be hired or purchased. For a single job, it would not be worth while. However, all is not lost as I have now located a supplier of excellent aerosol spray toners. See under 'LINKS' on the navigation bar. On the subject of French Polish, remember that white polish is colourless and ideal for light woods. Standard polish is probably best for darker woods such as Mahogany, Rosewood and Walnut. To find out more about the art of French Polishing, search the web under that title. I found a number of useful sites. One 'finish' I would NEVER use is any form of brush-on varnish. Although I have read of some restorers who use brushing varnish, all too often the efforts of would-be refinishers produce a thick treacly and amateurish looking coating with all the brush marks in evidence. tinted varnish stains look even worse, if that's possible. Spirit stains, too, need careful selection and use. Comments and questions welcomed on this general subject.
All rights reserved. © VRW 2006/2012
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